Terra Cotta Warriors

Would you be sad if I said they were an anticlimax? As crushed as I am to say it, I was underwhelmed. Before you get totally disappointed, there were a few non-ancient factors that contributed to that. The first is that they don't heat the buildings that cover the site, so it was freakin' freezing in there. The second is that the buildings basically look like giant high school hockey rinks inside, complete with spotty lighting, so half the stuff was really hard to get a good look at for lack of light. The third was the cold. So was the fourth. The fifth was that my glasses were in the bottom of my backpack, and I didn't want to loudly rummage through my bag and wake everyone else in the dorm (at 9:30 AM...lazy bums!), so even if the lighting had been good, I wouldn't have been able to see especially well.
But the fact remains that they're pretty impressive. The largest of the three groups is about as long as 2 football fields end to end, and although they're not completely excavated, what has been unearthed is pretty amazing. Each soldier is different. Their heights, builds, and facial features are all unique, and I got some cool photos of some different guys. Not only that, but they seem to have different personalities. The self-satisfied general, the intently concentrating kung fu artist, the slightly daydreamy infantryman...it was really interesting to see them all. It really is as if the emperor had his whole army replicated in clay and buried with him.
One of the coolest things, which I didn't know, is that his tomb remains undisturbed to this day. One of the biggest reasons for this 2000 year resting in peace is the fact that the whole tomb is surrounded by a layer of mercury, so if anybody disturbs the outer layer of the tomb they're in for a nasty bit of poisoning. The idea of an undisturbed royal burial anywhere is tantalizing to the Indiana Jones in me.
And speaking of Indiana Jones, my compadre for the day was a German archaeology student, so he was good for information on preservation techniques and stuff like that. His name, significantly enough for my mother's side of the family, is Dirck.
After the warriors we went to the Wild Goose Pagoda, which had plenty of cool stuff to see, but frankly I don't remember anything but the big tall tower and the Vegas-style musical fountain show. And a few very vivid wall artworks depicting the travels of a Buddhist saint through some of the very places I've already visited (namely India and the Middle East). But honestly, even that is not the clearest in my memory because I was too cold to think about anything but how cold I was. Note to self: going from steamy Bangkok to freezing Xi'an is a major shock to the system.
The last fun thing for today was the dumpling party at the hostel. Basically a few of us sat around the table stuffing dumplings together. Despite my best efforts, mine always came out totally misshapen. But when you steam them up, they taste the same, right? We tested that theory after the chef steamed them up, and they were, in fact, quite delicious. I approve. Fun times.
Tomorrow I'll see a few more local sites like the museum, and then it'll be off to a little town called Pingyao, which I've been told by pretty much everybody is adorably historic. A lot of the old town is still intact, so I can go and see what an old Chinese town would have looked like before modern skyscrapers popped up in the middle of them. I'm looking forward to it. And a couple girls who went on the tour today are going there, too, so I may even have someone to pal around with - and they're Chinese, so my language barrier issues may be temporarily resolved! And they're also headed to Beijing after a day in Pingyao, just like me, so I may see them there, too. Life is good.
Off to get something hot to drink to thaw out....

Still loving China so far.

I am loving China so far. People here are amazingly friendly - and it's sincere friendliness. I'll have to preface this whole thing by saying that almost nobody speaks English here. It's the first time in this whole trip that I can't walk up to any old random stranger and assume they speak enough to get me by. I feel like a total foreigner, and I love it. But at the same time, I'm not a target. I'm the only foreigner I see every time I leave the hostel, and yet nobody tries to chase me down and sell me stuff. It's like the entirety of Xi'an could care less that I'm here. I'm not a curiosity, I'm not a walking wallet, I'm just one more person in the crowd. Yay!! The only time people called me out was when I wandered through the Muslim Quarter, which is basically a big market where such things are to be expected. But walking down the street, I'm left alone. Completely alone, in fact, because even the billboards aren't speaking to me - I can't read a single one of them! Occasionally a store will have a sign in Roman characters, but even that is usually just a transliteration like Bei Jin Jie rather than "Noodle Shop."
Anyway, nobody speaks English. At one point I got a little lost and wandered into a restaurant that had a sign that said "Pizza!" hoping somebody spoke enough English to set me straight, and of course nobody did. But rather than say "tough luck," they called an English speaking friend who gave me verbal directions, then they handed me a map (all in Chinese), then gave me gestured directions, and then one of the waiters actually walked me down the street until we were within sight of the first landmark, pointed it out, gestured to the right, and then smiled and sent me on my way. He wasn't expecting a kickback or anything, just a nice guy making sure I didn't get lost again. It blew my mind. Then, when I'd gotten myself way out of town to see the jumping-off point for the Silk Road (which is a bit out of the main center), I sauntered up to the bus stop, now with my handy new map in hand, smiled, and pointed to where I wanted to go. A couple people pointed to some bus numbers, then when one of them arrived, pretty much took me by the arm and put me on it. Such kindness and hospitality blows my mind. Thank you, China!!
And I'm really excited for tomorrow, because guess who's going to go see some Terra Cotta Warriors?? Me!! Can't wait!

New Year, New Country

I arrived in Xi'an at 10PM last night. As a result, by the time I'd collected my bag and such, I spent midnight sitting on the airport shuttle to Downtown. But by some fabulous bit of luck, I arrived at the downtown historic Bell Tower at the stroke of midnight. As I got off the bus, Roman candles and firecrackers erupted in the square across the street. So with my backpack still on my shoulders, I headed on over. As I walked, a fleet of giant red and yellow lanterns floated into the sky. I arrived and watched people unfold the delicate lanterns and light them, then wait for them to inflate like hot air balloons and float delicately into the sky. A very peaceful contrast to the cacaphony of firecrackers and other pyrotechnics (realeased by rank amateurs - I definitely caught a Roman candle in the thigh...but I survived unscathed). As I was standing there with eyes agog in total wonderment and happiness, this group of Pakistani guys walked over and introduced themselves. I guess they're students at the aeronautics institute in town, and they are always looking out for foreigners because when they first arrived and realized nobody spoke English, they had a really rough time. So we hung out and had some laughs (including posing for photos for local celebrants who liked the foreign influence to the party), but then it was really, really cold compared to Bangkok, so I decided to split.
Arriving in town without a reservation at that hour, I'd booked a hotel at the airport - Super 8, of all things! Let me tell you, after a month of sleeping in absolute bottom-end dumps, this place was heaven. Two words: down comforter. Best night of sleep ever...
Right now it's just about midnight where you guys are, so I hope everybody is partying hard and having a great New Year's celebration.
All the best in 2009!!! The year of Obamaaaaa!!

Happy New Year! (edited)

And happy birthday Brother Chris!! Not sure if I'll be able to call you tomorrow since I'll be on a plane for most of it, but if I don't get to talk to you until your b-day has passed, hope it's awesome.

Well, after my last post, I went and got that Thai massage. For those of you who have never hade one, get one! Oh my god, best thing ever. There's definitely a lot of being twisted into a prezel and then kneeded with elbows/feet/etc., but it's awesome. I've been sore all day between all my walking around town and three days of stitting still on boats/busses, but I walked out feeling like a million bucks.

Then I went out to explore Khao San Road. Yup. Just as nuts as they say it is. Tourist heaven. I feel like I've been dropped on another planet... (this is where my computer timed me out and I couldn't finish the post). Anyway, yeah, Khao San Road is like Bourbon Street with shopping. Crazy. Neon lights, loud music, a bunch of backpakers wandering around looking for a party...it's definitely a scene, and now I can say I saw it, but all I can say is I'm really, really glad I didn't get a hotel there. Yuck. My neighborhood was only about a block away, but it was way quieter and less full of places with signs like "Cocktails in a bucket! Cheap!"

I don't think we're in Laos anymore, Toto...

But the one good thing about Khao San Road was what I stumbled upon while scavenging for decent street food (ugh. Pad Thai, fruit shakes, and chicken on a stick...how unoriginal. And felafel, of all things! One guy did have a cart with fried bugs, but I wasn't up for doing it alone). I wandered up and suddenly hear all this traditional sounding music coming from behind this temporary bandstand. I get around to the front side, and it's Thai dancing! Yay! Scenes from the Ramayana. The dancing was way, way better than the stuff I saw in Laos, and I hope I got some good pictures. Yay free New Year's festivities! Thai dancing is just so elegant. It's very contained motion. Not a lot of waving your arms around and flashy acrobatics. But it's mesmerising. So much revolves around the hands. After my experience with my own flippers-for-hands in kathak dancing back in India, I have a huge appreciation for it. And their fingers! Most of us, when we extend our fingers fully, will have a flat surface from palm to fingertip. Not these guys. Their fingers curve back in this unbelievable arc. It must take years of stretching. So when they put their hands palm to palm, their hands look like an X. It's gorgeous. And the constumes are amazing. Headdresses that sparkle in the light, elaborately painted masks for all the animal and monster characters, and embroidered outfits covered in sequins and other shiny things (I'm like a raven, I love that stuff). I sat around for half an hour or so watching, until it was time for a new act...a more modern band with a drag queen on drums. I took that as my cue to depart.

And that was that. 36 hours in Thailand. Mission accomplished. Off to China!

One day in Bangkok

The bus ride to get here was something else. For starters, we had a stewardess. Yup. You heard me. A beautiful woman dressed in a snappy but very short uniform who walked up and down the aisle of a swerving bus in high heels serving coffee and Pepsi and otherwise looking after our comfort. The bus itself was pretty sweet, since its seat had leg-rests attached to them and there was enough space between the seats that you could lean all the way back without having to look up the nose of the person sitting behind you. It also had twinkly star ceiling lights a la tacky prom limo. I definitely feel like I've been dropped in another universe from Laos.

My one day in Laos has been pretty good. Got a dump of a room to crash my junk in. Breakfast with my new Canadian friends, who have me halfway convinced that if I don't find a teaching job for the fall, I should go teach with them in Korea (don't panic...I'm sure it'll sound way less awesome in a day or two). Then I took a little rest and got all my leaky-roof-stank clothes cleaned. Then I went for a walk. I strolled all over the downtown area, checking out whatever I could in a day. I saw a 40 meter tall golden Buddha, had a phone eat a $5 phone card when I tried to call Air China, and then dodged the advice of the suspiciously helpful strangers who wanted to tell me the Royal Palace and Emerald Buddha Wat were closed for New Year ceremonies. Jerks. Obviously they were no such thing. They suggested I go see a whole bunch of smaller wats all over town to make up for it...in a Tuk-Tuk that they were more than happy to negotiate for me. It makes me fightin' mad to think that these guys are willing to send a foreigner off on a wild goose chase to a bunch of second-rate monuments that give a lame impression of his country just for a couple lousy Baht. It's like somebody standing on a corner and telling people "oh, the Jefferson Memorial and Capitol Building are closed today, but please, allow me to send you to the Podunk Museum and this lovely little emporium I know..." grrrr...
But I digress and allow my pet peeve to get the best of the story.
The palace was spectacular, but the highlight for me was the Emerald Buddha. Apparently it was found in the 1400s. It was (strangely) covered in plaster, but when the plaster started flaking off they realized it was actually carved out of solid jade. No photos allowed inside or I'd upload one, but it's pretty spectacular. It's enshrined in this huge room that's painted with these incredibly intricate paintings of Buddha's life. It sits atop a glittering pagoda that's almost 2 stories tall and covered with gold, red, and clear mirrors. He's lit from below by hidden bulbs that shed a soft light that looks like it's radiating from Buddha himself. He is guarded on all sides by sets of 3 gilded angels who occupy successive steps up to him, and the whole lot is guarded by two giant angels, also in gold. Even without my glasses it's truly beautiful. I'm beginning to wish I'd brought them. It's one of those places that inspires reverence even in the non-believer. Gorgeous.
Well, off to enjoy the last of my warm weather vacation and go get a Thai lady to stomp on my back!

Update

Well, I've made it to Thailand and have a bus ticket to Bangkok with a departure time of 3:30 PM, so I've got a couple hours to kill. All seems to be going to plan (famous last words).

So to get everybody up to date. Sansuny's baci ceremony was really awesome. A true Lao experience. I rode up on the back of Kee's moto (Kee is also one of the girls from My Library, and Sansuny's best friend). It was raining - in the dry season! So I was holding the umbrella, she was driving, and the two of us were getting pretty wet. But we arrived in one piece just in time for the ceremony. I got in and immediately was swarmed by a crowd of her relatives (mostly elderly ladies) who tied white strings to my wrists. For those who don't know what a baci ceremony is, it's a call to the protective spirits to watch over the person who is embarking on a new phase of life. It could be travel, a new baby, a marriage, a new job, or in Sansuny's case an international move to Bangkok and the start of university. Since I am a traveler, I got to get in on the good vibes. The strings tie the spirit to you, and you're supposed to wear them until they fall off so that they will protect you as long as possible.

At any rate, once I had that wonderfully warm welcome, the cermony went on, complete with a few minutes of prayerful chanting, and then it was party time. We adjourned to the lawn, which had tents set up and karaoke/keyboard setup, and tons of awesome Lao food. So we chowed down and got straight to dancing. I was there with an Australian girl who works at the center and had just gotten back from a vacation in Thailand, so I had another foreigner to hang with who could walk me through what was going on. We did the line dancing, we did the Lao walk-in-a-circle-dance, and as the night wore on, we just danced like crazy people. It was really fun times. The Australian girl and I ended up dancing with her two older brothers, which everybody thought was hilarious. And in the end, everybody got soaking wet and had a great time. It was an awesome way to end my Luang Prabang experience, and a great "real Laos" moment. I'm so grateful to have had the chance to go.

The slow boat trip was great as well. Long, and with butt-breaking hard, uncomfortable benches (sorry Dr. S, but this has done my back in - my upper back is dying to crack back into place!). But what a view. I got a lot of great shots of life along the Mekong. It was really beautiful to go along and see these isolated little villages along the way. I saw a group of women panning for gold in a sandbar, a lot of kids running around, people doing laundry, people fishing, and above all, the beautiful river and mountains. We also saw the "fast boat," of which I've posted a photo, and let me just say I'm really, really glad that I didn't take it. They have to wear helmets!!! Madness!! I've taken tons of photos and there's no way to get them all up right now, but I tried to put a few on here for you to get an idea.

The first night we spent in Pak Beng, which is basically just a ferry stopping point. Not much there. I stayed in a place at the top of the hill (cheap because everyone else gives up before they get there) and by hiking up the hill a bit more I got a great view of the sunset over the wat, and in the morning I saw the sunrise as well. Very cool. I also went to the morning market before the boat left, and that was really cool. All the produce vendors were just putting their stuff out but the butchers were already well underway - let me tell you, that section of the market was not for the animal lover or the faint-hearted, but I suppose if I'm going to eat meat, it's good to remind myself from time to time that it doesn't grow as a steak in a shrink-wrapped grocery store container.

Last night we got in too late to make the border crossing, but I ended up hanging out with these two Dutch guys and this couple from Canada that's been teaching English in Korea for several years. The female half of the couple happens to be a fellow dancer, which was awesome. We talked dance and teaching abroad and just hung out until it got late and was time to crash and we headed our separate ways. But now just by chance I was walking through town killing time and I've run into my Canadian friends again, and it turns out they'll be on the same bus today, so it looks like we haven't seen the last of each other. Fun times!

I lived

Just got off the slow boat, and I'm still getting my land legs back. Everything feels like it's rocking when I'm sitting down.
Anyway, I'm super tired and my caboose is killing me (hard bench seats from 8AM to 6PM for two straight days), so I'll fill in full details later, but the trip was great, the baci ceremony was amazing, and I'll tell you all about it tomorrow when I'm killing an afternoon before getting on the bus (if the bus still leaves at 7 as I've heard)