The bus ride to get here was something else. For starters, we had a stewardess. Yup. You heard me. A beautiful woman dressed in a snappy but very short uniform who walked up and down the aisle of a swerving bus in high heels serving coffee and Pepsi and otherwise looking after our comfort. The bus itself was pretty sweet, since its seat had leg-rests attached to them and there was enough space between the seats that you could lean all the way back without having to look up the nose of the person sitting behind you. It also had twinkly star ceiling lights a la tacky prom limo. I definitely feel like I've been dropped in another universe from Laos.
My one day in Laos has been pretty good. Got a dump of a room to crash my junk in. Breakfast with my new Canadian friends, who have me halfway convinced that if I don't find a teaching job for the fall, I should go teach with them in Korea (don't panic...I'm sure it'll sound way less awesome in a day or two). Then I took a little rest and got all my leaky-roof-stank clothes cleaned. Then I went for a walk. I strolled all over the downtown area, checking out whatever I could in a day. I saw a 40 meter tall golden Buddha, had a phone eat a $5 phone card when I tried to call Air China, and then dodged the advice of the suspiciously helpful strangers who wanted to tell me the Royal Palace and Emerald Buddha Wat were closed for New Year ceremonies. Jerks. Obviously they were no such thing. They suggested I go see a whole bunch of smaller wats all over town to make up for it...in a Tuk-Tuk that they were more than happy to negotiate for me. It makes me fightin' mad to think that these guys are willing to send a foreigner off on a wild goose chase to a bunch of second-rate monuments that give a lame impression of his country just for a couple lousy Baht. It's like somebody standing on a corner and telling people "oh, the Jefferson Memorial and Capitol Building are closed today, but please, allow me to send you to the Podunk Museum and this lovely little emporium I know..." grrrr...
But I digress and allow my pet peeve to get the best of the story.
The palace was spectacular, but the highlight for me was the Emerald Buddha. Apparently it was found in the 1400s. It was (strangely) covered in plaster, but when the plaster started flaking off they realized it was actually carved out of solid jade. No photos allowed inside or I'd upload one, but it's pretty spectacular. It's enshrined in this huge room that's painted with these incredibly intricate paintings of Buddha's life. It sits atop a glittering pagoda that's almost 2 stories tall and covered with gold, red, and clear mirrors. He's lit from below by hidden bulbs that shed a soft light that looks like it's radiating from Buddha himself. He is guarded on all sides by sets of 3 gilded angels who occupy successive steps up to him, and the whole lot is guarded by two giant angels, also in gold. Even without my glasses it's truly beautiful. I'm beginning to wish I'd brought them. It's one of those places that inspires reverence even in the non-believer. Gorgeous.
Well, off to enjoy the last of my warm weather vacation and go get a Thai lady to stomp on my back!
Tuesday, December 30, 2008
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